sport.wikisort.org - Athlete

Search / Calendar

Akiyo Noguchi (野口 啓代, Noguchi Akiyo, born May 30, 1989) is a Japanese professional rock climber, sport climber and boulderer.

Akiyo Noguchi
Noguchi at the World Cup in Vienna, 2010.
Personal information
NationalityJapanese
Born (1989-05-30) May 30, 1989 (age 33)
Ryūgasaki, Ibaraki Prefecture, Japan[1]
OccupationProfessional sport climber
Height167 cm (5 ft 6 in)
Weight49 kg (108 lb)
Spouse(s)Tomoa Narasaki (m. 2021)
Websitehttp://akiyonoguchi.com
Climbing career
Type of climberBouldering, Lead climbing
Highest grade
  • Redpoint: 8c+ (5.14c)
  • Bouldering: 8A+ (V12)
Known forWinning the bouldering World Cup 4 times
Sport
Retired2021
Medal record
Event 1st 2nd 3rd
World Cup 21 24 23
Olympic Games
2020 TokyoCombined
World Cup (Season)
2008Bouldering
Winner2008Combined
Winner2009Bouldering
Winner2009Combined
Winner2010Bouldering
2011Bouldering
2012Bouldering
2013Bouldering
Winner2014Bouldering
Winner2014Combined
Winner2015Bouldering
2015Combined
2016Combined
2017Bouldering
2018Bouldering
2018Combined
2019Bouldering
2019Combined
World Championships
2005Lead
2007Bouldering
2014Bouldering
2016Bouldering
2018Bouldering
2019Bouldering
2019Combined
Asian Games
2018 Combined
Updated on April 28, 2019.

She participates in both bouldering and lead climbing competitions. She is known for winning the IFSC Climbing World Cup in Bouldering four times. In her home country, she won Bouldering Japan Cup nine times consecutively from 2005 to 2014, which no other Japanese athlete has been able to match.

She retired from competition climbing after competing and winning a bronze medal in the 2020 Summer Olympics.[2][3][4]


Biography


Noguchi at the World Cup in Vienna, 2010.
Noguchi at the World Cup in Vienna, 2010.

Noguchi grew up on a cattle farm in the Ibaraki Prefecture. From a young age she would climb on buildings, trees and sometimes even on the cows. In 2000, when she was 11 years old, she tried a real climbing wall for the first time, during a holiday trip to Guam. Back at home she immediately joined a local climbing gym. Her father later built her a climbing wall in an old cattle barn on the farm.[5][6][7]

In 2007, she started competing in the Bouldering World Cups, reaching the podium three times. In 2009, she won the World Cup in bouldering, over the previous year's champion Anna Stöhr.[8] Noguchi repeated as champion in 2010, 2014 and 2015.[9] In the 2011, 2012 and 2013 bouldering events at the World Cup she placed second.[9] She has also won the combined climbling title at the World Cup three times.[9]

Noguchi was also awarded the La Sportiva Competition Award in 2010, "for her victories and the positive spirit she exudes during competitions".[10]

In 2019 Akiyo Noguchi won a silver medal in the combined competition at the climbing World Championship which qualified her for the 2020 Summer Olympics. Noguchi had contemplated retirement from competition climbing as early as 2016, but when it was announced that climbing would become an Olympic sport in 2020 for the first time she decided to try and qualify for Olympics in her home country.[11] Noguchi attended her final IFSC Climbing World Cup in Innsbruck in June 2021, finishing a career of 169 World Cups and World Championships and 75 podium places.[12] On July 13, 2021, she published an autobiography.[13]

She finished her climbing career with a bronze medal at the 2020 Summer Olympics.[3][4]

On December 25, 2021, Noguchi and fellow Japanese sport climber Tomoa Narasaki announced their marriage on their respective social media pages.[14]


Rankings


See also: Best IFSC results and Akiyo Noguchi in the Climbing World Cup

World Cup


2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2021
Lead 42 21 24 5 11 8 20 13 7 10 30 17 15 8 9 22
Bouldering - - 6 2 1 1 2 2 2 1 1 4 3 2 2 9
Combined - - 5 1 1 2 3 3 2 1 2 2 6 2 2 -

[9]


World Championships


2005 2007 2009 2011 2012 2014 2016 2018 2019
Lead 3 11 8 - - 9 - 8 5
Bouldering 21 2 5 5 6 3 3 2 2
Speed - - 31 - - - - 47 34
Combined - - - - - - - 4 2

[15]


World Cup podiums



Lead


Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
200811
200911
201022
20110
20120
201311
201411
20150
201611
20170
201811
201911
202111
Total04610

[15]


Bouldering


Noguchi at the World Cup in Munich, 2012.
Noguchi at the World Cup in Munich, 2012.
Season Gold Silver Bronze Total
2007213
20081113
20093115
20102114
2011415
201233
2013325
20144127
2015134
2016123
2017235
2018347
201944
Total21201758

[15]


Rock climbing



Redpointed routes


8c+ (5.14c):

  • Mind Control - Oliana (SPN) - December 10, 2013

8b (5.13d):

  • Liquid Finger - Joyama (JPN) - December 12, 2008

Boulder problems


8A+ (V12):

8A (V11):


See also



References


  1. "Akiyo Noguchi".
  2. "Sport Climbing NOGUCHI Akiyo". Tokyo 2020 Olympics. Tokyo Organising Committee of the Olympic and Paralympic Games. Archived from the original on 2021-08-04. Retrieved 2021-08-16.
  3. "The Tokyo Olympics will be Akiyo Noguchi's First … and Last". Climbing. 2021-06-19. Retrieved 2021-08-16.
  4. "Who Is Akiyo Noguchi? - Why Japan's Legend Is Retiring In 2021 - Climber News". www.climbernews.com. 3 July 2021. Retrieved 2021-08-16.
  5. "Indoor Weekly: Akiyo Noguchi on Cows and Olympics". Gripped. 6 June 2018. Archived from the original on 2019-07-15.
  6. "Akiyo Noguchi explains 2020 Olympic event sports climbing". hakuhodo-global.com. Archived from the original on 2019-07-15.
  7. "Owndays meets #3 Akiyo Noguchi". Archived from the original on 2019-07-15.
  8. planetmountain.com, ed. (June 16, 2009). "Coppa del Mondo Boulder 2009: Fischhuber e Noghuchi al top, Moroni è terzo". Retrieved 2012-04-29.
  9. IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "World Cup Rankings". Retrieved 2019-08-20.
  10. Vinicio Stefanello (July 18, 2010). arco2011.it (ed.). "Arco Rock Legend 2010 a Manolo, Ondra e Noguchi". Retrieved 2011-12-22.
  11. Clarke, Owen (June 19, 2021). "The Tokyo Olympics will be Akiyo Noguchi's First … and Last". climbing.com. Retrieved 2021-07-01.
  12. "Second Gold of the Week for Garnbret, three boulder medals for Team Japan, and a farewell to Noguchi". IFSC. June 26, 2021. Retrieved 2021-07-01.
  13. "野口啓代、初の自伝本 『私とクライミング 野口啓代自伝』を7月13日に発刊｜CLIMBERS". クライマーズ公式サイト｜CLIMBERSはクライミング、ボルダリングをテーマにした総合WEBサイト (in Japanese). Retrieved 2021-07-29.
  14. "Japanese sport climbing stars Noguchi, Narasaki announce marriage". Kyodo News. December 26, 2021. Retrieved December 28, 2021.
  15. IFSC, ed. (August 20, 2019). "Noguchi's profile and rankings". Retrieved 2019-08-20.
  16. "Akiyo Noguchi Crimps To Glory On 'Aguni' V12 | EpicTV Climbing Daily, Ep. 383".
  17. "Rock Trip 2016 in Bishop". YouTube.
  18. "Akiyo Noguchi's Rock Trip to Joe's Valley". YouTube.
  19. youtube (ed.). "Monsterman SD". YouTube.
  20. up-climbing.com, ed. (February 9, 2010). "Two female 8A – Noguchi and Matthes". Retrieved 2011-12-22.


Wikimedia Commons has media related to Akiyo Noguchi.

На других языках

- [en] Akiyo Noguchi

[it] Akiyo Noguchi

Akiyo Noguchi (Ryūgasaki, 30 maggio 1989) è un'arrampicatrice giapponese. Pratica le competizioni di difficoltà e boulder, l'arrampicata in falesia e il bouldering.

[ru] Ногути, Акиё

Акиё Ногути (яп. 野口 啓代 Noguchi Akiyo, род. 30 мая 1989[2], Рюгасаки, Ибараки[2]) — японская спортсменка, выступающая в спортивном скалолазании, в частности, в боулдеринге. Также она сильно выступает в лазании на трудность. Победительница Кубка мира и многократный призёр чемпионата мира. Девятикратная участница Восхождения на Кубок Японии с 2005 по 2014, что является рекордом для японских скалолазов. Участница Олимпийских игр. Бронзовый призёр Олимпийских игр 2020 в Токио.


Текст в блоке "Читать" взят с сайта "Википедия" и доступен по лицензии Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike; в отдельных случаях могут действовать дополнительные условия.

Другой контент может иметь иную лицензию. Перед использованием материалов сайта WikiSort.org внимательно изучите правила лицензирования конкретных элементов наполнения сайта.

2019-2025
WikiSort.org - проект по пересортировке и дополнению контента Википедии